Why Bagan is the ultimate destination in 2020!

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Standing over the reflection pond at the Ananda Temple.

Standing over the reflection pond at the Ananda Temple.

A perfect sunrise in Bagan.

A perfect sunrise in Bagan.

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The Beauty Of Bagan

It’s 3:30am in the morning here in Los Angeles and I’m wide awake thanks to the jet lag from my recent trip to Asia. I certainly don’t mind it at all, especially when I still feel high from such an amazing, eye-opening experience. This past week, I flew across the world to visit 4 different countries that are all so unique in their own way: Taiwan, Vietnam, Myanmar, and Malaysia. I had visited Vietnam and Taiwan in previous years so you can imagine how elated I was to see Myanmar, particularly an off-the-beaten path town called Bagan. When I mention Bagan most people draw blanks, much less have a clue where it is located. It is not necessarily a place that is at the top of everyone’s travel bucket list but it really should be. Located in Central Myanmar, Bagan is a magical place that consists of elaborate and ornate temples that date all the way back to the 11th century. If you look up the hashtag #Bagan on your IG page, you will see that many people venture here to witness both the sunrises and sunsets over these grand architectural structures. Every morning before dawn, they release hot air balloons over the sky (you can take a ride in one!) and get a birds eye view of the entire region with the morning glow. How amazing is that!? Bagan has an extensive amount of history that goes along with being the host to some of the world’s greatest wonders. There are literally over 4,000 temples to see and, if you do the math, would take you over a year to see them all if you visited 10 temples a day. In this article, I want to highlight my personal favorite temples that are must visits in Bagan along with some inside information that I think is important to know before you go. Take off your shoes and follow along with me on this beautiful journey through majestic Bagan…

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Top 3 Temples to see in Bagan! (Both Day and Night)

  1. Ananda Temple - Completed in 1090, this temple was commissioned by King Kyansittha of the Pagon Dynasty. There are four standing Buddhas located inside and are each 32 feet high. They face North, South, East and West. The corridors are lined with glazed-clay plaques that tell the story of Buddha’s life. The temple was damaged in an earthquake in 1975 but has been mostly fully restored. This was one of my favorites from the trip! Definitely a must when visiting Bagan :)

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2. Dhammayangi Temple - The largest temple in Bagan, this was built during the reign of King Narathu. This temple is rumored to be cursed due to its macabre backstory. The story goes that Narathu, hungry for power, murdered both his father and his elder brother in order to claim the throne. The tale goes that he built this massive temple to atone for his sins. Narathu never managed to fully complete the temple. evidenced by a few open corridors, since he himself was assassinated shortly after assuming the throne as result of public resentment to his cruelty. Along with being the largest, it is also the widest temple in Bagan and when you walk inside, you get the feeling that this place is haunted. We visited this temple during a night tour and, while it was beautifully lit up outside, you need flashlights to navigate through the darkness inside. How scary!!

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3. Gawdawpalin Temple - This temple had the coolest design in my opinion. It has a very gothic feel and was completed in 1227. It is the second tallest temple in Bagan and is two stories tall; containing three lower terraces and four upper terraces. In contrast to the stupas, the hollow gu-style temple is a structure used for meditation, devotional worship of Buddha and other Buddhist rituals. The Gawdawpalin Temple was built to the style of the hollow gu-style temple. The gu temples come in two basic styles: "one-face" design and "four-face" design—essentially one main entrance and four main entrances. Other styles such as five-face and hybrids also exist. 

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*WONDERFACT: I highly recommend touring the temples both day and night if you can. Some of the temples are open at night to tour and they are beautifully lit for photos and to visit. We asked a guide to specifically take us around at night (an unusal request) but it’s amazing because you can avoid the large crowds that visit the temples daily. The night tour feels like a ghost tour, it’s amazing!

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BEST PLACES TO SEE THE SUNRISE AND SUNSETS IN BAGAN (WITHOUT THE CROWDS)

Due to an earthquake in 2016 that destroyed about 90 temples, the Myanmar government banned climbing on any of the temples. I am going to be honest with you, this made it quite difficult to pick a spot to watch both the sunrise and sunset. Of course, you can go to places like The Nann Myint Tower. That has the best view of the entire region, but be prepared to fight over a good spot facing west since it is also crowd central. I am not a fan of crowds so this spot wasn’t for me. Before the ban of climbing, many tourists would just pick a temple to climb and you could have a spectacular view from practically everywhere (even while I was there, I watched a group of french backpackers climb up on an old one) but you do so at your own risk. If you get caught, it is a fine or jail-time. There are also less crowded hills to view the sunrise which are better than the tower but still you are fighting for that perfect shot. I am an influencer so my goal is to take the perfect shot without people in the frame. The best advice I can give to see the perfect sunset or sunrise is to ask a local and scout one out. Sunrises in Bagan usually occur around 7am so we would wake up at 4:45am and go looking for the perfect location that we knew would have less people. It does take more time and you’re not guaranteed that people won’t pull up to join you, but at least you won't be irritated that people won’t share the opportunity for a great photo. We found some fantastic spots right off the main road and watched them from an open field (pictured above). You can see we still had a birds eye view of the balloons launching along with the sunrise in the background. If you’re on the hunt for the perfect photo, my advice is to get up early and go find a quiet location! If you don’t like crowds, this article is for you!

*WONDERTIP: $US are gladly accepted practically anywhere in Bagan, however, the bills must be flat without folds or creases.

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Souvenir Shopping at The Nyaung U Market

Take a break from the temples and head over to the local market in town also known as The Nyaung U Market. This place is truly special because not only can you purchase souvenirs here but it’s a great place to people watch and see what the local citizens eat, wear, and do in Bagan. I walked around and was amazed at all the beautiful colors that filled the streets along with watching how the Burmese work. A few women passed me carrying and balancing trays on their heads stacked with items. I thought to myself, “that kind of talent can only be found in a circus!” I also picked up some great tee shirts to bring home along with some lacquer that they specialize making here. There is a workshop you can visit where they make the actual lacquer. It’s rather fascinating to witness.

*WONDERFACT: When walking through the market and someone offers you a free item, DO NOT TAKE IT! Everyone is trying to sell you something, and although you don’t have to worry about pick pocketing here, you do have to be on the alert that women will follow you closely and bug you until you buy something.

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Where to Stay in Bagan

The Aureum Palace Hotel and Resort is by far the best accomodations in Bagan. It is a little on the pricier side but the ambience, rooms, hospitality, all surpass 5 star service. Not to mention you can overlook the 11th century temples from the property. When we visited it was fairly hot during the day and cool at night, so a dip in the pool was essential to our visit. They have room service, two restaurants, and breakfast is served everyday near the pool with a view. When I walked around, I felt far and away, it was something out of a fairytale.

Room Rates: $150-800 a night (depending on which room and what time of year)

Rates vary by season and time of year, my stay was in September of 2019 **As always, please call to confirm your rates as they are subject to change.